The Way They Were: Dressed in 1860-65: A Photographic Reference by Donna J. Abraham, Abraham’s Lady LLC, 2008, 160 p.
I write about the photographs I find in antique stores and thrift stores on my Substack blog, Family Photo Reunion (https://familyphotoreunion.substack.com) so whenever I see a reference book that I believe will assist me in dating pre-1927 photographs, I usually buy it. Donna Abraham’s book immediately appealed to me. Specific to cdv photographs, it covers a short window of time, and I felt it would be just the thing to help me with my collection of cartes de visite. The book blurb on the back cover explains the author compiled these images to assist costumer designers, historians and students, so my purpose (dating images) is outside the intended use for this book. But more on that later.
In her introduction, Abraham explains the book is “a photographic reference and companion to other documents already written about the 1860-1865 time period.” That is a crucial point. There are few words in this book. It is very much a collection of black and white photographs, helpfully organized into chapters by subject: 1) Fashions for Children 2) Fashions for Women 3) Groups 4) Fashions for Men and 5) Close-Ups.
Each chapter begins with a brief discussion about the fashion trends of the time, including fabric choices, dress style, hairstyles, common accessories and other notable details. The “Fashions for Women” chapter is understandably the longest chapter in the book, covering the many aspects of women’s fashion: fabrics, fabric patterns, dress trims, hairstyles, hats and caps, outer wear, wraps, and specialty dresses such as mourning dresses, wedding or ball gowns. Men’s styles did not change as quickly or as dramatically as women’s fashions, though there are certainly key trends to watch for.
Will this book help the genealogist who wants to learn to identify and date photographs? I believe so. I use it quite often to compare the contents with my own photographs to find similar fashion points. Abraham gives only sparse commentary on the evolution of style in this book, so it is up to the reader to observe and to note similarities and differences in the photographs. It is likely the author didn’t intend her audience to use the book in this way, but the photographs also provide genealogists with other bits of useful information, other than fashion. The book shows how photographers commonly posed their subjects, and to identify the types of props and settings used during this period. I would have found this book even more helpful if the author could have noted the specific year of each photo, if known, to show the progression of fashion over the five years. Still, photo detectives will find this collection of over six hundred cdv images a helpful record of fashion and photography from the first half of the 1860s.



