Review: Out-of-Style: An Illustrated Guide to Vintage Fashions: 19th- 21st Centuries by Betty Kreisel Shubert

Out-of-Style: An Illustrated Guide to Vintage Fashions: 19^th -21^st Centuries by Betty Kreisel Shubert, 2^nd Edition, Dover Publications, 2018, 352 p.; index, illustrations, photographs.

Clothes and costume designer Betty Kreisel Shubert was inspired to write this comprehensive book after being asked to speak at a genealogy society meeting about changes in fashion. Shubert soon recognized the need for a guidebook that would assist genealogists with dating photographic images through fashion. Many such guides discuss the costume details to look for when dating images, but unfortunately, not many provide adequate photographs and illustrations of specific fashion features. Most books, sadly, do not provide enough details.

When I received Out-of-Style in the mail, without having been able to browse the contents beforehand, I was surprised to see that most of the illustrations were just that, hand-rendered illustrations, rather than photographic examples. I thought this might be a disadvantage, but as I used the book while writing my Family Photo Reunion blog posts, I came to appreciate Shubert’s illustrative methods. The drawings amplify the specific fashion differences the author wants to point out, often showing the progression of a silhouette or shift in costume design.

The narrative style is chatty and informal. Not only does the author present facts about changes in style, she also provides the “why” of some surprising fashion trends in an entertaining manner, such as in Chapter Two, “Why Hoop Skirts Were Born.” The book is divided into two main parts:  the 19^th century and the 20^th century. While much of the book pertains to women’s fashions, there are also helpful sections about men’s and children’s fashions. The first chapter provides an overview of the primary silhouettes in women’s fashion from 1830-1900 and an entire chapter is devoted to the nine sequential phases of the bustle --before I read this, I thought there were only two! Shubert also discusses the garments that are not visible in photographs but shape the sitter’s silhouette and give clues to the fashion period. Yes, I’m talking about the fascinating history of corsets, brassieres, and stockings. Special occasion clothing is also discussed in detail, including reform dress, wedding attire, maternity clothes, mourning dress, and bathing suit fashion.

I frequently use Shubert’s book alongside other reference books, such as Joan Severa's Dressed for the Photographer, to assist me with dating the fashions I find in photographs. The author has included a comprehensive index, as well as a lengthy bibliography, arranged by subject, which directs to further reading material should the reader like to delve deeper into any clothing-related topic. Highly recommended.